Top 10 Haikyo 2010

Mike GristBest Of

Common wisdom says Japan is a tiny island nation crammed from shore to shore with people living one on top of the other. Every bit of spare space is used to build Prius factories and grow rice.

In actuality, though, there are far more dark spots on the map than you’d imagine. The general view that every square inch of land is worth a bazillion dollars is just not true. There are gaps in the facade that whole towns have fallen into, along with bizarre abandoned theme parks, ruined U.S. Air Force bases, and the tawdry remnants of pay-by-the-hour love hotels.

These places are known as haikyo, the Japanese word for ruins — and Japan has plenty of them.

Here are the top 10 of 2010.

10. Yamanaka Lake’s Lost Bunker

The underground bunker haikyo by Yamanaka Lake in the shadow of Mount Fuji is one of the strangest abandoned structures I’ve ever explored. I stumbled upon this bizarre spot in an unpopulated and obscure part of the Japanese countryside while hiking. I knew nothing about its history.

At first I thought it must be the headquarters of a cult — maybe Aum Shinrikyo, the one that bombed the Tokyo subway with sarin gas in 1995.

A sigil of 5 unknown logos formed a cross on the inner wall of the bunker, but none of the other explorers wandering the halls while I was there could recognize them.

Finally, the mystery was solved by a fellow explorer who had found a magazine featuring one of the logos at the location. The bunker belonged to the brokerage firm Sanyo Securities, which went bankrupt in 1999.

 

9. Ashio Dozan Ghost Town

Ashio Dozan was a mining town in the mountains some 200 kilometers northwest of Tokyo, and infamous in Japanese history as a site of extreme environmental damage. The town was mostly abandoned 40 years ago, the mines and factory shut down, and new standards in environmental care called for at the highest national levels.

It had been a copper mining and processing town for over 400 years. At its peak, it supplied over a third of Japan’s entire copper supply. But in the process, the nearby mountains were poisoned with sulfurous acid gas from the plant’s smelters.

Now it’s a creaking conglomeration of fading facilities — a power station, the factory, numerous barricaded mines, a train station, a temple, a school, and a small town of tumble-down wooden apartments, haunted only by a few aged holdovers who have nowhere else to go.

Abandoned shrine to the Copper Gods.

Switching lines in the rusted old train station.

8. Keishin Radiology Hospital

The Keishin Hospital in Kanagawa prefecture was once a pre-eminent site of super high-tech radiology equipment, leading the charge as Japan raced into the modern era. Some 20 years ago that dream fell by the wayside, and the place was left to the vandals.

They tore out everything that could be torn out, leaving only a few metal fixtures too heavily stapled down. Then came the taggers, followed by the true graffiti artists, the young people shooting documentaries, and the cosplay kids playing truant from school. Keishin has a whole other life now that it’s dead.

The few surgical lights that remain hover in the dark.

She sings sweet nothings in your maddened ear.

Vision of the bewilderbeast.

7. The Russian Village Theme Park

A gigantic complex without any rides and built in the middle of nowhere, the Russian Village Theme Park in Niigata is an almighty folly. It opened in 2002 but closed only 6 months later for lack of visitors.

The major attractions were a huge mammoth hall, in which the genuine fake bones of a prehistoric woolly mammoth were on display, and a grand Russian-style church for fantasy wedding retreats.

The place was already in tatters when I went to visit. In souvenir shops, Matroska dolls lay smashed and scattered. Mannequins stood on the weedy walkways. A stuffed swan guarded a hallway, having broken free of its glass case.

Dirtied wedding hall- once hoped to be the prime attraction for themed weddings.

Genuine fake bones of a woolly mammoth.

6. Osarizawa Factory and Mine

Mining of gold and copper at the legendary Osarizawa mine began around 1,300 years ago, with the last of the smelting facilities closing down in 1978. Now the site is owned by Mitsubishi, who run guided tours around the highlights and a museum for 1,000 yen.

One legend of Osarizawa mine involves a gorgon-headed lion with the wings of a phoenix, the legs of a cow and the head of a snake. Its roar and monstrous appetite for children terrified the nearby villagers, who urged the village’s wisest old man to go battle it on the mountain top. The old man had long gray hair, and went to battle the beast in a series of 6 dreams. In the final one he managed to slit open the beast’s belly, from which poured gold, copper, and lead.

The vibrant blue color of the water in the pools is probably due to dissolved copper or a solution of copper sulfate used to precipitate out the purified solid metal.

5. The Toyo Bowling Alley

The Kanagawa Toyo Bowl was one of several 1980s alleys built during Japan’s bowling boom by Hideki Yokoi, a man with a true rags-to-riches story.

Yokoi came to Tokyo with nothing in 1928, when he was just 15 years old. By 1957, he had become the manager of a bowling alley and department-store chain. In 1958, he was shot by a Yakuza gangster for 20 million yen in outstanding debts — but he survived. In 1987, he built the Toyo Boru. It had 108 lanes, and was the second biggest bowling alley in Japan. In 1991, he bought the Empire State Building in New York.

The alley went bankrupt at the same time as Yokoi’s holding company in 1999. Its lanes were stripped of wood, and its gambling halls of machines. It has sat empty ever since.

Somebody’s delivery truck, delimbed.

Not an easy game of air-hockey.

Beautiful alone.

4. Akasaka Love Hotel

A love hotel is much the same as a roadside motel, though built with only one purpose in mind — it’s a place for people to go when they don’t have a private place of their own. Rooms can be rented by the hour (a “rest”) or for the whole night (a “stay”).

The Akasaka Love Hotel is situated at the far end of a strip of love hotels on a quiet country road in western Tokyo, and clearly suffered for the lack of passing traffic. It was built only 11 years ago, but closed after just 3 years in business.

Love hotels are infamous for their gaudy “fantasy” rooms, decked out in vivid Day-Glo colors and with so little taste that they can still shock and awe, even in ruin.

Gaudy, naughty.

3. Matsuo Ghost Town

Matsuo mine in the north of Japan opened in 1914 and closed in 1969. In its heyday it was the biggest mine for sulfur in the Eastern world. It had a workforce of 4,000 and a wider population of 15,000 people, all of whom were accommodated in a makeshift city in the mountains of Hachimantai Park.

The city was known as the “paradise above the clouds” for its comparatively luxurious apartment blocks and near-constant ebb and flow of mist. That same mist nearly prevented me from finding the place at all.

I drove on featureless roads up and down oddly rolling hills for nearly an hour before the first of 11 giant apartment blocks finally emerged from the mist, like granite crags on the hillside.

Walking through the empty corridors I felt my love of ruins reinvigorated. The mist surrounded me, tamping the world down to just my small pocket of existence. I walked the length of three blocks in awe. I climbed to the roof, careful over rotten-through concrete steps, and looked out into the thick enveloping fog, and remembered why I go to these odd places.

Battered by endless winds down the mountains.

2. Fuchu U.S. Air Force Base

The abandoned U.S. Air Force base in Fuchu is a vine-slathered memento from the early days of Japanese-American war and peace, built shortly after World War II in co-operation with the still-active nearby Japan Self-Defense Force Base, and abandoned in the 1980s.

Its huge twin parabolic dishes are still visible from the exterior — though now half-eaten up by the passing decades, rusted red and bobbing like hole-riddled yachts on the sea of green jungle. Its roads swim with weeds and trees shot up through the cracks, and its barracks buildings glisten with waterfalls of rushes and creepers, windows and doors barely peeping through the shadowy gaps.

Going in the base was out of the question, but by shooting through the fence and borrowing photos from intrepid explorers who had braved charges of trespassing, I can shed some light on what the place looks like now.

Within the huge radar foils.

1. Sports World Theme Park

Sports World is a massive theme park, featuring a hotel, large mini-golf course, gym, dive pool, wave pool, swimming pool, log flume, speed flume, triple tube-flume, and inner-tube rushing river, all in ruin. It was built in 1988 and abandoned only 10 years later, falling prey to its out of the way location and its proximity to the then-new Disneyland.

It’s an explorer’s dream come true, 20 years abandoned, overgrown, but still relatively intact, set in a truly gorgeous forested mountain area. There are terrifying screaming monkeys and birds at night, models on fashion shoots by day, and all manner of ways to entertain oneself clambering, clowning, and investigating the rest of the time.

Sports World was the first haikyo I overnighted in. I brought along a tent and arrived under cover of darkness. I ended up sleeping on the tatami mat floor of the park’s fairly pristine abandoned hotel. The next day I awoke to a breathtaking view of rolling forested mountains to the horizon, a view unseen by anyone for years. That’s why I go to haikyo.

Tubes to the horizon. Carry me to the next world.

If you enjoyed these ruins explorations, you can find more here-

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600 Diggs and site news

Mike GristUncategorized

My article on Asylum has reached 600 Diggs, and I`m really pleased. The Digg page got a lot of comments, largely it seems about how bad the HDR is. Looking back on those shots, I can see better what people are talking about now. Part of it is a change of monitor- the old one didn`t show the colors so vividly, so they didn`t look so over-saturated. The new one (just using my macbook screen) shows it better.

The Asylum article has sent about 10,000 people to this site so far. That`s pretty amazing. It blows the roof off my monthly page views, taking it from around 50,000 a month to something like 70 or 80,000. About half of those people only stayed for 1 page and less than 10 seconds, but the other half stayed longer so no worries.

In other site news- I`ve changed the look of the site some, and been experimenting with ad-types. I`d like to make a little money from this page, but am realistic about that. It`s a niche thing to cover, and there`s no obvious product to sell. So I`m adding a Paypal donate button (just watched the movie Julie/Julia last night) and we`ll see if that does anything. If you`d like to make a donation, it will be much appreciated.

Ah, final news, am `resurrecting` my old Strange Japan content. At the moment only the Snacks/Drinks page is up, but the others will be returned soon.

I`d love to hear your thoughts on any of the above.

Asylum Haikyo Article

Mike GristHaikyo, Haikyo in the Media

The US men`s magazine Asylum is currently running an article introducing haikyo to their readers, written by me. It’s a top 10 of all the best `ghost towns` in Japan, and is the first of what could be several articles on Japan`s ruins on that site.

Asylum is a popular online magazine catering to culture-savvy young men. They generally run articles about weird stuff and hot laydeez. Apparently they surpass Playboy.com, Maxim.com and many others, with 31 million page-views by around 2 million readers per month. Wow.

This article has been in the pipeline for about 4 months, waiting for its air date. I`m excited its finally live, and want to welcome anyone coming from there to check out this site.

It`s easy enough to navigate- all the ruins can be found in the ruins galleries. If you`re interested in my fiction, it`s in the library. If you like what you find, why not subscribe by RSS or email for updates in the future? Thanks.

5 More Stories in Ruin

Mike GristStories

apocalypse-rassouliUniversal Time

Rav works the Deep 7 as a Tempus man, ferrying light-speed adjusted time in his cargo-hold full of clocks. But the empire has been split by a gigantic schism, the worlds are seceding, so what is the value of universal time any more?

This is probably the first short story I wrote. Rav works for a dying empire and spends his free time living out the life he could`ve had in virtual reality, until the end really hits home.

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Top 5 Japanese Ghost Towns

Mike GristBest Of, Ghost Towns

Common wisdom about Japan says it’s a tiny island with a serious premium on space, leading to real estate prices in the cities higher even than the most exclusive blocks of Manhattan. The thought that there might be whole abandoned towns on this island seems a paradox- how could a country with so little space abandon anything?

Well, they do.

Most ghost towns in Japan are built around mines, like abandoned gold rush towns in the American West. When the mine seams gave out the jobs went away and the people left. Soon, the place was abandoned.

Here are 5 of Japan’s best.

1- Ashiodozan Ghost Town

Ashiodozan Mining Town in the mountains of Tochigi Prefecture is infamous in Japanese history as a site of extreme environmental damage- so much so the town was mostly abandoned 40 years ago, the mines and factory shut down, and new standards in environmental care called for at the highest national levels.

Ruined apartments.

Degawa Power station.

It had been a copper mining and processing town for over 400 years, at its peak supplying over a third of Japan’s entire copper supply, in the process though poisoning the nearby mountains with sulfurous acid gas from the plant’s smelters.

Now it’s a creaking conglomeration of fading facilities- a power station, the factory, numerous barricaded mines, a train station, a temple, a school, and a small town of tumble-down wooden apartments, haunted only by a few aged holdovers with nowhere else to go.

Abandoned shrine to the gods of copper.

Smelter.

More about Ashiodozan Ghost Town here.

2- Osarizawa Ghost Town

Mining of gold and copper at the legendary Osarizawa mine began around 1300 years ago, with the last of the smelting facilities closing down in 1978. Now the site is owned by Mitsubishi, who run guided tours around the highlights and a museum for 1,000 yen.

Copper leaching vats turned blue with residual chemicals.

One legend of Osarizawa mine involves a gorgon-headed lion with the wings of a phoenix, the legs of a cow and the head of a snake. Its roar and monstrous appetite for children terrified the nearby villagers, who urged the village’s wisest old man to go battle it on the mountain top. The old man had long grey hair, and went to battle the beast in a series of 6 dreams. In the final one he managed to slit open the beast’s belly, from which poured gold, copper and lead.

Mayan temple much?

A tree branch poisons in the vat.

More about Osarizawa Ghost Town here.

3- Matsuo Ghost Town

Matsuo mine in the north of Japan opened in 1914 and closed in 1969. In its heyday it was the biggest mine for sulfur in the Eastern world. It had a workforce of 4,000 and a wider population of 15,000, all of whom were accommodated in a make-shift city in the mountains of Hachimantai park. The city was known as the “paradise above the clouds” for its comparatively luxurious apartment blocks and near-constant ebb and flow of mist. That same mist nearly prevented us from finding the place at all.

Apartment buildings emerge from the thick mist.

The complex of 11 apartment buildings was built over a few years from 1951. Each block stood four stories tall in reinforced concrete. The first floor was designed for young childless couples, with one 6-mat room and kitchen per flat, while upper floors were for couples with children, with one 8-mat room, one 6-mat room, and a kitchen. Compared to Japanese standards of the time they were very well-appointed apartments, with a central heating system, a flush lavatory and a garbage chute.

Utterly eerie.

Ghosts at the windows?

A regular apartment interior.

More about Matsuo Ghost Town here

4-Nichitsu Ghost Town

The ghost Nichitsu Mining Town sits cramped into a narrow valley at the head of a long and buckled road in the mountainous western edge of Saitama. It was once a thriving company town with hundreds of families, the women staying at home in their rickety timber apartments, the children at the large wooden high school, and the men down in the mines digging for tin.

View from the rooftop walkways.

But that was over 20 years ago- since then the town has been relentlessly pounded by avalanches and ravaged by decay. All around the buildings stand with their roofs and walls caved in, reeds shot through floorboards and decking, swingsets and see-saws over-awed by brambles and flurries of fallen leaves.

Old firetruck.

Repairs don’t last for long against the bitter weather.

Bridge to the Doctor`s office.

Recuperation room.

Brain in a jar in the storeroom.

More about Nichitsu Ghost Town here.

5- Taro Ghost Town

The derelict Taro mine lies at a generational crossing point- once a place where raw sulfides were dug from the earth, now it functions as a cosmic ray laboratory for a nearby University, capturing electrons from outer space in several large heavily wired pools. The town it once supported had a population of over 5,000, and the town had it’s own community centre as well numerous other facilities.

The big machine hall.

Second tier of the factory.

An overgrown side-hall.

Community centre.

More about Taro Ghost Town here.

See more ruins explorations here-

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Overgrown Toyota at Tama Lake

Mike GristCars, Haikyo, Tokyo-to

The last time I went to the Akasaka Love Hotel on Lake Tama was November 2008. Winter was just setting in and had not yet sloughed away the summer`s ripe vegetation, meaning that this gorgeous neglected Toyota was mostly buried in foliage.

I took a few shots of it scraggled with greenery but they didn`t stand out. Now winter reveals its pale bones, most of them broken backwards and jiggling loosely on rusted hinges.

A Toyota.

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10 Abandoned Haikyo Vehicles

Mike GristBest Of, Haikyo

The haikyoist must be ready to use any means of conveyance at his or her disposal. If that means hot-wiring an old mammoth or jerry-rigging an escalator to run like a hamster-wheel, so be it. It`s just another part of the infamous haikyoist`s creed – take only photos, leave only footprints, don`t touch the fire extinguishers, and ride it if you can.

Russian Village theme park.

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By the Grammaton

Mike GristJabbler's Mons, Writing

BY THE GRAMMATON is an (as yet unpublished) collection of short stories set in the brutal city of Jabbler’s Mons.

Life is harsh under the King’s savage rule, with the threat of Evincement on the Spike ever-present, so the city’s denizens have become harsh; surviving floods and famine, endless nights, genocide, volcanic eruptions and the wrath of dark gods.

FREEMANTLE MONS

Freemantle Mons the Leviathan Smile watches as the moon and stars freeze in the sky and perpetual night descends over the city, spurring a race against the rioting populace as he struggles to kick-start the Grammaton clock-tower and get the skies moving again.

See more on this painting of Freemantle’s city here.

KILLIN JACK

Killin Jack the Malakite finally completes his genocide of the Bunnyman race, except for one Bunnyman baby whose father died to protect him. Jack faces the impossible choice of letting the child live, or slaughtering it.

See more on this painting of Killin Jack here.

CELIBATE JAYNE

Celibate Jayne the Hammerhand busts out of a whale that has a living child inside, a boy who cannot speak in anything other than whale-song. A glimpse of the life of whales calls into question Jayne’s whole life as a whale-hunter.

STEREO WARD

Stereo Ward the Simpleton finds writing on the subway wall that might offer a way out of his miserable job as a tunnel-ghast.

LUMPEN BOB

Lumpen Bob the Bellyhead discovers a living woman in the Gutrock lava flow, thousands of years after the volcano blew, and begins to unearth the secrets, and cost, of her survival.

LONNIGAN CLAY

Lonnigan Clay the Mumpen-clawed Cray’s quest to exact revenge upon the white dome of the ocean that stole his wife will throw all the he knows into doubt and reorient the world? around him.

5 Stories in Ruins

Mike GristStories

Ruins feature prominently in my fiction, and continue to do so even though I haven`t posted any short stories here for a long time. I`m currently working on a trilogy set in my fantasy universe of Jabbler`s Mons, about halfway through the second book and revising the first. Since I`ve posted no fiction for a long time, I thought I`d reintroduce a few pieces through the lens of ruins. Here are 5 of my short stories, all about ruins.

Click through on any of them to read the full thing.

clowdishley2Sir Clowdishley and the Sea

Sir Clowdishley once explored the oceans, astronomer to the King, until his family died in the waves. Now he wanders the coasts of England in the ruins of his own once-glory.

I love the idea of a guy hell-bent on revenge on an inanimate object. There`s something beautifully self-deceptive about it, but also hopeful. Can he force the sea to relent?

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The Guardian reviews this site

Mike GristHaikyo, Haikyo in the Media, Interviews / Reviews

About an hour ago the Guardian newspaper put a review of this site online. It was written by Johnny Dee in the `This week`s internet previews` section, and was very positive. As you can imagine, I`m very surprised and pleased at this development. The Guardian!

It`s a short review, and in it he talks mostly about the haikyo galleries, but he also mentions my fiction, reviews, and highlights the nuclear blast craters article. Click the paper to go to the review.