The abandoned US Air Force (USAF) base in Tachikawa is a bramble-choked memento from the early days of Japanese/American war and peace. It was annexed by the USA shortly after World War II, in co-operation with the still-active nearby Japan Army (SDF) Base, then abandoned in the 1970’s as the Vietnam war came to a close.
Its three huge chimneys are still visible from the exterior, brick-red and lined up like masts on a rudderless ship, slowly sinking deeper into the smothering sea of green jungle. Its airstrip now swims with weeds, and bamboo forests have grown through the foundations where buildings once stood, patrolled by old men on bicycles keeping a watchful eye on the 10-foot perimeter fence.
Storage bunker, one of the few remaining structures on base.
As with the Fuchu Air Base, I’ve been here before. The first time was some two years ago, in the early days of my haikyo exploration. I must have walked the perimeter circle 4 or 5 times, as dusk fell around me, wondering if I had the chutzpah to scale the fence. At no point was it easy to climb, and at no point in an isolated spot. It got dark, and I became antsy. The guard in the guard box out front didn’t leave, except to occasionally drive carefully around the interior, or cycle around the fence. In the end, I gave up. It didn’t seem worth it, so I backed off.
Map of the whole base. The central part is now the huge Showa Kinen Park, site of Tokyo`s only full disc golf course. The left oblong, 1km long, is the abandoned base. The right oblong is the still-active SDF base.
The second time, around a year later, I arrived with my chutzpah turned on, knowing what to expect. After circling the base to my desired sport, I just went at it. Over a fence, and in.
After that, my memory’s a series of frantic snapshots as I ran around looking for things to shoot. It started to rain, reducing visibility, and that just amped me up further. Roads criss-crossed in every direction, and I knew that the old security guard could use any of them. I didn’t doubt I could out-run him if it came to a chase- but I didn’t want it to come to a chase.
And so even with the sense of real risk pretty absent, I still ran from cover to shelter like a hunted animal. When taking shelter in buildings, I became acutely aware of my heart thumping, and more worried every second about stepping back out of my new-found safety, and into the open.
Exciting.
This massive bunker hosted me for around 30 minutes, as I planned my next line of attack-
It is pretty huge, covered in ivy, and built to withstand serious punishment. The walls and doors are several feet thick.
Covered in ivy.
The central part of the bunker had probably once been an office, with desks, machinery controls, and grilled windows looking into the hangar-like storage area alongside.
The two doors left and right lead to the hangars.
Filing cabinets belie it was an office.
Empty storage shelves in the bunker’s back room
The hangars either side were filled with old equipment. The southern wing (below) had what looks like a lot of air conditioning equipment. The northern wing had chairs and assorted engine parts. In the back was a staircase, going up to the roof.
Of course I clambered over everything to get to it. and up- affording me the best view of the remains of the base anyone’s had in years.
Elevator and lift gear in storage.
Looking back towards the entrance, the stairs to be climbed.
Up the stairs.
At the top of the stairs was a small room, smashed in rot and weather, then more stairs, then the roof.
Signalman`s room?
Rickety stair-case.
One of the hazards of haikyo- stairways whose rungs have fallen away. I walked with great care.
On the roof the view was excellent, dominated by the forest, and the three chimneys.
Roof and chimneys.
Roof ruins.
After leaving that sanctuary, again I was on the run, bobbing in and out of the overgrown forest and through clumps of bamboo, head ducking in search of the old dude on his bicycle. I heard there were immense apocalypse-emergency tunnels underneath the old base, perhaps some kind fall-out shelter for Tokyo’s elite. I saw a few hatch-like structures emerging above ground, which had no doors of any kind. Could those be the air circulators, for such a massive complex?
This from Wikipedia.
Consolidation resulted in the establishment of the Tachikawa Disaster-Preparedness Base, involving hundreds of miles of tunnels designed to support 5,000 top government members for a year in the event of a catacylsmic disaster. The bunker building is one of only a few remaining structures on the large base lot.
I didn’t linger around them.
After a while I got pretty turned around inside. Even seeing the three massive chimneys, that I’d seen clearly from outside, didn’t really help orient me.
The guards had buckled a ladder into the chimney flues, so it is possible to climb up inside them.
I climbed up inside one, and again briefly relaxed. What were these chimneys for, remnants of some kind of power plant, or a waste incinerator? Did they cremate bodies here?
Inside the flue.
Looking out.
Looking at the inside of the base of the chimney.
Looking down at the base of the chimney.
Dreaming of the past.
After the towers, dusk was falling and I really thought I was pushing my luck to stay any longer. I wasn’t sure any more which way I’d come or which way was out- all the straight grid streets of the base looked equally overgrown, and I’d zig-zagged through so much bamboo I had no idea where my entry climbing fence had been.
I got out my iPhone and pulled up the map feature. Then, working myself up into a lather, I started to run.
Which way was I going? Where was the exit?
Watching the little screen with me inching down an overgrown road, peeking up to check I wasn’t slaloming into some obstacle, I felt weirdly like a World of Warcraft character running to his next battle. I ran in a straight line for a few minutes, until at last one of the easiest fences- also closest to the guard’s box- emerged, and I plunged for it. At last I hit it, vaulted over the top, and landed on the legal side, out of breath.
An old lady looked at me confusedly. I nodded, and went on my way. So it goes.
History
The Tachikawa base started life as an Imperial Japanese Army airfield, though that role later morphed to also cater to civilians by the 1920’s. In 1929 Japan`s first regularly scheduled commercial air service departed from this base to Osaka, a three hour commute that was in operation for 4 years, until the service was moved to Haneda airport on Tokyo Bay. After 1933 the base returned to being an Army airfield, and remained so until the end of World War II. During the war it was defended by the Shintentai, an anti-aircraft kamikaze group. Near the end of the war Tachikawa was subjected to heavy bombing, and in the aftermath was occupied by the US.
From Wikipedia– Disaster struck Tachikawa on June 18, 1953 when a U.S. Air Force C-124 Globemaster II transport experienced an engine failure on takeoff, crashing shortly after. The accident claimed the lives of 129 people, and was the deadliest air disaster in history at the time. With a runway only 1,500m long, Tachikawa was not adequate for the largest aircraft, and the U.S. decided to extend the runway into the neighboring town of Sunagawa.
The July 8, 1957 Sunagawa Riots resulted in cancellation of the plan. The U.S. instead developed Tama Airfield (the present-day Yokota Air Base) and moved its operations there. By 1969, the U.S. had largely left Tachikawa, and in 1977, after the end of the Vietnam War, it returned the base to Japanese control.
The Japanese government put the land to a variety of uses. The Japan Ground Self-Defense Force established a base there, as did the Japan Coast Guard, the Tokyo Metropolitan Police Department and the Tokyo Fire Department.
Comments 684
I’m really enjoying reading this. My dad was an Air Force physician and we lived on Tachikawa Air Force Base for 3 1/2 years, from 1967 to 1971. I would have been ages 6 to 10. I am the oldest of four children, and the youngest was born there in 1969. I do have some photos. And, I am old enough to retain some memories, but they are scattered. Some of my favorite memories are playing in what felt like a big field behind our house on base with all the other kids, Mongolian barbecue at the Officers Club, and painting Japanese letters at school with thick black paint. One of my brothers was on a little league football team called the Packers, with bright green uniforms! Long time ago, but great memories.
I was housed in the Dormitory at Tachikawa from March 1975 to March 1977, and worked at Fuchu Air Base in Tech Control. Just reaching out, thanks
I spent two weeks at Tachikawa Air Force Base before being shipped (C-47) to Korea for 13 months. I was in the 5th Air Force. 1962-1963. I told them I would re-enlist if I could be stationed in Japan, but that was not to be.
My father (a USN Commander at the time) was OIC at that time (you read that right). I started school there, and have very fond memories of our time in Japan.
Thank you for your service.
never saw it before I was born there in Nov 1953
I was stationed at Feamcom from Dec 1954 until June 1056. I was in a com maint squadron and lived I a quanset hut.
Dick Mannix
I was in the 1503rd support squadron in Comm/Nav from ’65 thru early ’67 – lived in modern barracks on base. Did stint of TDY @ Yokota.
Iwas at Tachikawa 1963 – 1969 Civil engineers Power Production lived in Green Park just saying hello
I was born there on December 27th, 1955. I was the first cecarean baby born at the hospital and they flew in a specialist from the US because I was the fourth cecarean from my mother!!
Tracing the history of the beginning of the Korean War 73 years ago 6/25/50. National Archives have a short film 6/28/50 of C-54s offloading ammo to supply Republic of Korea (ROK) troops. C-54s have “22nd TCS” printed on them. Korean War Project tells me that stands for 22 Troop Carrier Squadron – from Tachikawa AB.
Thanks for these photos! I was born on that base 50-odd years ago and lived there until I was 2yo. I biked around the Showa Kinen in the late naughts, and saw the abandoned area but didn’t go in :^)
I spent the first 4.5yrs of my life on this base, 1955-59 my father was military police in USAF, and was stationed here. Currently working on my bucket list and this is the dream destination for my 75th birthday, gift to myself.
I was stationed at Fuchu AS from September 1964 until September 1965 (The Tokyo Olympics were finishing). Wow what a blast! Downtown Tokyo was a short subway trip and full of wonders. I worked in Personnel with some great co-workers and I still dream about some of the most memorable days of my life. Vietnam conflict got hotter and I was transferred to Hawaii in late 1965. Still remember Japan/Tokyo and would love to hear from anyone else who was around at that time. Tell me about mamasan, ojosan, Kirin, Shinjuku, gyoza, coffeehouses, Ginza, etc.
i was station at tachi from 1947 to 1949 with the 801 air evac sqdn what a great place tachi waS GREAT MEMORIES. BUFORD PLEW
Lived there as a young child from 1960 to 63, Dad was an SSgt at Base Operations.Lived west of the Canal and across from the Base Boiler. A great place to grow up, felt very safe there.
I was a dependent. My Dad was the commander of the AACS over at Fuchu from 58-60. I had an accident and remember having to stay at the Tachikawa hospital to repair my broken arm. I even made the Air Force Times with a picture of me eating cake on Boy’s Day (May 5th) 1959. Thanks so much for the information shared.
My dad was also AACS, Lt Col George Fitzpatrick. I was born at the Tachikawa AFB hospital June 1963.
Hi Mike,
I am a producer and I work for an organisation called PlantPop. We make documentaries about plants – you can see them here at Plantpop.com. We stumbled across your incredible pictures of abandoned spaces taken over by nature and we would be very interested in making a film with you about abandoned spaces reclaimed by the local plants. I wonder if you could reach out if you think this might be of interested to you.
I normally work a lot with National Geographic, the BBC and many others, but Plantpop.com is unique, as it has a very artistic approach and it leaves a lot of freedom to experiment to our filmmakers.
We are trying to make a longer version of the films we normally make. Possibly even 40 minutes or more.
The idea would be for you to return to a place you have already been in i.e. Japan and go with you to another place or two where you have never been and follow you, film you as you take your pictures and ask you a few questions about your thoughts and your motivation, your experience, in a way that suits your style and your personality.
I wonder if we could chat on the phone, so that I could tell you a bit more about our project.
I would be very grateful if you could send me your number and or a time and day that would be best to call.
All the very best for now,
Paola
UK – 0044 77 99 77 8250
ITALY – 0039 366 317 0070
https://www.imdb.com/name/nm1866589/
https://www.thetalentmanager.com/talent/23488/paola-desiderio
My dad was stationed at Fuchu when I was born in 1957. We returned as a family tour in 1960. Daddy was stationed at Tachikawa at that time and my youngest brother and sister were born there. We lived in the newly built Kanto Mura Family Housing Annex until we returned to the US. Returned again in 1973 when dad was stationed at Yakota. Again, lived in Kanto Mura Housing Annex. We were there until just prior to Kanto Mura closing down. Some of the last families to leave. Entered first grade at the elementary school then went to school at the high school when we returned in 1973. My brother graduated from the High School – one of the last graduating classes. We left Japan for the last time in August 1975.
I was at LARSON AIR FORCE AND LEFT THERE FOR TACHI JAN 59.
I was suppose to be there 2 years….stayed a year and 1/2. Was in
Customs and immigration. I was working the day a Japanese survivor
Was brought home the base was crowed that day. Our little was
The one who met all incoming flights with passengers onboard. Stayed
Till early 60’s. Got out and hired on with DELTA AIR LINES. 40 years 2
Months. TACHI holds a lot of good memories (thxs for listening.
Hello, does anyone remember TSgt Michael Javick my father who was stationed there in the early 50s? He repaired the P51s and was from Plains, Pennsylvania. Thank you Michael Javick Ret US Army
I was stationed there from 1962 to 1964. 2132 AFCS. Squadron.
I was there (Sam) with my husband who was stationed at Tachikawa Air Base 1968-69. We lived in a small house off base at 1915 Takimatsu Cho N-2 Tokyo To right outside gate 8 by the hospital. My husband Tim Smith(Smitty) flew in and out of Cam Rahn Bay Vietnam with Dave Dulin. Our friend Paul Brower was there working with the computers. I became friends with the wives, Cheryl Dulin and Cindy Brower. We’re still all friends, minus Smitty and Dave, they passed away within 4 months of each other. Our other friend, Dan Speckman passed away too. A lot of great memories there! We still talk about it! I live close to the Air Force Museum in Ohio.
My ex-husband was stationed at Yokota AFB and we lived at Tachi South West Courts, which was a compound of paddy houses near Tachikawa AFB. I worked at the base exchange and caught the shuttle bus. Sometimes we would go to Tachikawa City on the weekends. There was a group of people living near the base perimeter, outside the fence near the runway. They occasionally would stage protests, just to disrupt our holidays! I have many fond memories of those early days from an amazing adventure in the 1970s. We had very little entertainment back then. We played BINGO at the NCO club, or went to a movie on base. Japan is a very interesting place to live. I liked it there.
I lived close to Tachikawa, on Kantomura from 1967 to 1971. I went to high school at Chofu High School and volunteered at Tachikawa Hospital for the American Red Cross as a Donut Dolly, serving the wounded soldiers from Vietnam. Those were four wonderful years. My heart still today goes out to the soldiers that fought in Vietnam. My dad worked at fifth AF on Fuchu in munitions for the Vietnam war. Trudy Jeane Williamson
I was stationed at Tachikawa AB from 1969-1970, (about 14 months) and assigned to the 36ARRS (Air Rescue and Recovery Sq). I lived on Yamato AB a short bus drive away in the Bachelor Airman’s quarters (BAQ barracks). There was a “shuttle’ bus that came to Yamato every 30 minutes that served as a taxi from Yamato to Tachikawa for all the airman living on Yamota. During those years, Tachikawa AB was divided by the runway and referred to East side and West side; my squadron was on the West side within walking distance to the West NCO Club. As I look back on those years, I have very fond and delightful memories from that experience. I remember there was ¥360 to the dollar during the time I was stationed there. I bought my first 35mm camera in 1969 and became very involved in photography that I still follow and enjoy today. I still have a large collection of color slides of Tachikawa, Tokyo and other cities, shines and castles from around that area. Our unit was the last aircraft unit to leave Tachikawa and move over to Yokota Air Force base, in 1970. After only 14 months of being stationed in Japan I returned to the US to become a civilian…..at least for only 7 months then re-enlisted back in the Air Force. Several years later, I was assigned to Kadena AB where my wife and I spent 3 years on the island. Great memories!
I was at Tachikawa from 1957 to 1959. My assignment was the 2713th warhorse sq in commercial transportation.
I WAS COAST GURD WE USED THE BASE TO SUPPLY LORAN STATIONS AT IWO JIMA AND MARCUSE ISLAND FLYING C-30 AND DC4’S
My Dad was stationed there and I was born there in June 1961. I’ve always wanted to see the region
where I was born. I’m going to start planning. The last year my Dad played football was 1961 for the
Tachikawa Pirates.
My Air Force father was sent to Tachikawa in 1959 or 1960. I was about 9 years old.
We lived off base in Kunitachi for over a year, renting a house next door to Papasan. My mother hired a maid named Chiaco. Chiaco told her that she didn’t need a maid, and spent a lot of time teaching me instead.
We learned how to take the bus to and from the airbase. I spent a lot of time wandering the streets near our house, and also bicycling. I met Japanese people, including Nobuo Hirachi and his dog. We attended some neighborhood festivals where everyone wore kimonos and danced in a circle around a fire.
When we moved on base, my Japanese education continued via our “culture” class at school. We learned about wood prints and how to do them. We took field trips to Tokyo, yokohama, and to the Big Buddha at Kamakura. We spent a weekend at an inn at Mt. Fuji, and climbed part way up.
Those four years are forever with me. I still have dreams of the wooden buildings, like schoolhouses such as the music conservatory and the streetside stores that sold candy wrapped in rice paper. I got my first 3-speed bike from a Kunitachi bike store.
All of the Japanese people that I met were nice to me. I did not know, at the time, about WW II, Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
Now an old woman, I want to go back and visit. I want to do the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Thank you for reading. Domo arigato.